Two hours from Seattle, three from Portland, Hood Canal is a bustling summertime destination that is gaining year-round gastronomic popularity owing to its oyster resources. Geographically and romantically referred to as a “fjord,” it is the only marine fjord in the lower 48 states. Defined by its dizzying depth— 600 feet in spots—and littered with the till of the glacier that formed it roughly 26,000 years ago, it connects the towns of Union and Hoodsport while providing access to the Salish Sea. Fed by waters descending from the Olympic mountain range, it’s the perfect place to grow oysters.

Oysters are interesting creatures. Each one of these vaguely sensual morsels tells us much about the history of its existence. The shell offers clues as to how it was raised. Beach growing promotes a flounce of delicate ruffles while raised bags concentrate on the austere cup—chipping at frills with each tide. Suspended they have increased algae and don’t waste energy forming thick shells to protect themselves from predators. They grow fast with subtle briny flavors. Beach oysters are heartier with a more complex “kelpy” taste.

A journey around Hood Canal and South Puget Sound allows the oyster aficionado to experience the nuances of each body of water. Approaching Shelton from the South on Hwy 101, stop in at Taylor Shellfish’s headquarters and visit their market for oysters grown in neighboring inlets. Taylor’s specialties include the famed Kumamoto (sweet fruity flavor) and the Virginica (crisp, briny, and buttery). The company has been farming oysters on Puget Sound since the 1890s. 

Primarily a logging town, Shelton is slowly awakening to its oyster heritage. The Mason County Historical Museum downtown recently dedicated an area to display their aquaculture past. Most tales lead back to the prized Olympia Oyster. In the 1850s, gold prospectors brought their appetites for oysters with them from the East Coast and would celebrate large strikes with feasts of oysters and champagne. A plate of Olympias sold for as much as $20 (the equivalent of about $400 today). As the only oyster native to the region, Olympias covered Washington’s shores prior to the Europeans’ arrival. But over fishing and industrial pollution caused the Olympia to rapidly decline. Today biologists and farmers are combining forces to re-establish the native populations. 

In Shelton, head down Railroad Avenue to the popular southern BBQ spot, Smoking Mo’s. Upstairs is the “Shucked Up” oyster bar. In this cozy perch you can compare the "merroir" (as compared to a wine’s “terroir”) of oysters from Hammersley to Hood Canal.